Resin Printing Process
This is what the resin 3D printing process looks like. Support structures are needed for printing. These will be removed by us afterward.
With all the scale specifications, you're probably asking yourself: Which scale is the right one for me? We hope that the following information and the image can help you with your decision. Of course, we are happy to answer any further questions you may have.
Custom sizes desired? :) Always feel free to ask, in most cases we can produce custom prints.
H0 1:87 = Model building scale for model railways. Gauge 0 / back height approx. 1.8cm
1:64 = Micro model horse size / back height approx. 2.3-2.5cm
1:32 = back height approx. 4.5-5cm
1:24 and 1:20 = Suitable for figures from the manufacturer Schleich. Back between 7 and 8.5cm
1:18 = Fits perfectly with Collecta horses in terms of size / back height approx. 9-9.5cm
1:16 = Model horse size / back height approx. 10-10.5cm
1:12 = Fits Classic model horses / back height approx. 13.5cm-14cm
1:9 = Fits Breyer's Traditional series horses / back height approx. 18-19cm
1:6 = Fits Mr.Z brand horses / back height approx. 28-29cm


This is what the resin 3D printing process looks like. Support structures are needed for printing. These will be removed by us afterward.
Even before the printing process, large, hollow models (most scales we print solid) receive drainage holes. This ensures that uncured resin drains during the printing process. We seal these holes afterward. You will only be able to faintly discern them :).
Hollow prints also receive one (or sometimes two, depending on the model) large hole. The UV lamp for internal curing is inserted through this hole. Afterwards, we seal this hole so that it's almost impossible to tell where it was :)
Even with this cavity, everything drains out through holes in the tail.
So that the prints can always breathe from the inside, a single air hole remains. However, we hide this in a location that is not easily visible. In horse models, this is usually under the ganaches (cheeks of the horse).
We pay great attention to proper curing. Our prints are cured by two 150-watt lamps over an extended period. This corresponds to many times the wattage recommended as a minimum requirement for UV curing. This ensures that even hidden corners are cured :)
You won't have to do much sanding yourself, as we thoroughly pre-process each model and also ensure that the surface is nice and smooth.
All hollow prints are cured by us from the inside using very strong UV light. The example image shows how the lamp shines through the entire model (hole in the camel's hump). For very intricate models, we also use small UV bulbs that are inserted into the model's angles. However, our prints are only hollow at larger scales (usually from 1:12 upwards).
This is how a print that goes to the customer looks (not yet ready for painting and not primed)
This is what a product with our special service "ready for painting + priming" looks like.
FDM Printing:
FDM prints are significantly more stable than resin prints and are made of plastic. The FDM printer creates objects by layering multiple small plastic lines that bond together, slowly forming the object. Unfortunately, for smaller scales like figurines, this printing technique is nowhere near as precise and clean as a resin printer. However, for larger objects (e.g., 1:6 model horses or large busts), it presents no problem. The disadvantage of this printing method definitely lies in post-processing (the small print lines remain visible after printing). To achieve a completely smooth surface, extensive sanding is required, and possibly the use of spray filler (which significantly reduces sanding time). Once this work is done, FDM prints can also be very smooth. However, you will always receive FDM prints from us already pre-processed, so you don't have to do all the sanding yourself :).
Here are some example images of an FDM print from us: